Every rug we sell is made by hand, and many are vintage pieces that have already lived for decades. The right everyday habits help them last. This guide covers daily care, spills and stains, sun and moisture, rugs that curl or lose their shape, washing, storage, and how care differs between hand-knotted rugs, kilims, and other handmade weaves.
This is general guidance. If your rug's product page lists a specific material, condition, or care note, that information comes first. When in doubt, contact us before trying anything at home.
The Essentials
If you only remember five things, remember these. They match the care label attached to your rug.
Use suction only. Avoid rotating brushes (beater bars) and keep the vacuum away from the fringe.
Turning the rug spreads wear and light exposure more evenly.
Act on spills right away with a clean, dry white cloth. Press and lift; rubbing spreads the spill and roughens the fibers.
Do not machine wash, soak, or use steam cleaners or harsh chemicals.
Have the rug fully cleaned by a professional experienced in handmade rugs, not with a steam cleaner or by a general carpet service.
When Your Rug Arrives
Rugs travel folded or tightly rolled, so the first few days are about letting the rug settle.
- Unpack it promptly. Do not leave the rug sealed in plastic, especially in a warm or humid space.
- Expect some creases. Fold lines often relax within a few days of lying flat. If a crease is stubborn, see Curling & Wrinkles below.
- A faint wool scent is uncommon but possible. A few rugs carry a light natural scent when first unpacked. It fades as the rug airs out in a well-ventilated room. A musty or sour smell that does not fade is different; please contact us.
- A few loose fibers are possible. Some surface fibers may come up in the first vacuuming sessions. Shedding that increases, leaves bare-looking areas, or comes with broken fibers is not expected; please contact us with photos.
- Check the rug against the listing. If anything looks damaged or different from the product page, email us within 48 hours of delivery with your order number, photos, and a short video, and keep the packaging until we reply. See our Return Policy for details.
Good to know
Handmade rugs are rarely perfectly square. Slight differences in width, gently wavy edges, color variation (called abrash), and, in vintage pieces, earlier repairs are common features of handmade and older rugs. Your rug should match the photos and description on its product page; if something looks different from what was shown, contact us.
Everyday Care
Vacuuming
- Use suction only, or the gentlest setting your vacuum has. A spinning brush pulls at the pile and the weave over time.
- On pile rugs, vacuum in the direction of the pile. Run your hand along the rug: the smooth direction is the way the pile lies.
- Keep the vacuum off the fringe; it can catch and tear.
- Vacuum the back of the rug now and then, and the floor underneath it. Grit collects there, and undisturbed areas are where moths like to settle.
- How often depends on use. A busy entryway or living room may need a gentle pass every week; a guest bedroom far less.
Shaking out
Small, lightweight rugs in sound condition can be taken outside and shaken gently to release dust. Hold the rug by its body, not by the fringe, and do not snap, whip, or beat it. Do not shake large, heavy, antique, or fragile rugs; the strain falls on the ends and the fringe.
Rotating
Rotate the rug 180 degrees every few months, or more often in a room with strong light or a clear walking path, so wear and light exposure are spread more evenly.
Rug pads
A rug pad is optional for most handmade rugs. Some owners choose a pad for extra grip on smooth floors or a softer feel underfoot. If you use one, pick a pad that suits your floor and is slightly smaller than the rug.
A thread or tuft sticking out
Do not pull it and do not cut it. What looks like a loose tuft can be part of the rug's structure. Send us a photo and we will tell you whether it can be trimmed or needs a rug repair specialist.
Spills & Stains
Most spills can be handled well if you act quickly and gently. The goal is to lift the spill out of the rug, not to wash the rug where it lies.
First response for any spill
- Lift off anything solid with a spoon or a dull knife, working from the outside in.
- Blot with a clean, dry white cloth or paper towel. Press and lift; do not rub or scrub.
- Keep moving to a clean part of the cloth until it stops picking up liquid.
- Finish by pressing a dry towel onto the spot, then let it air-dry with good airflow. Do not use a hair dryer or other heat.
- Do not add water, soap, or cleaning products. If any mark remains after blotting, contact a professional rug cleaner promptly rather than waiting to see whether it fades.
Contact a professional as soon as possible if
- any color appears on your cloth,
- the spill spreads, darkens, or leaves a ring,
- the spill has soaked through to the back of the rug,
- the spill is oily, contains dye (ink, nail polish, hair dye, markers), or is from a pet,
- the rug is antique or fragile, or the spill is on a loose or damaged repair.
A clean cloth is not proof that the colors are safe to wet. Further treatment at home is how a small spot can become permanent damage.
Common spills and what to do
For every spill below, start with the first-response steps above.
| Spill | What to do | Avoid |
|---|---|---|
| Juice, soda, sweet drinks | Blot thoroughly and quickly. Sugar left in the fibers can attract dirt, so if a mark or stickiness remains, contact a professional. | Scrubbing, carpet shampoo. |
| Red wine | Blot immediately and keep blotting with a fresh cloth. If any mark remains, contact a professional soon; early treatment gives the best chance of removing it. | Salt, club soda, bleach, stain removers, and other home remedies. |
| Beer, spirits, cocktails | Blot thoroughly. Drinks with sugar or color need the same care as juice or wine. | Rubbing, soaking. |
| Coffee and tea | Blot quickly while still wet. If the drink had milk or cream, contact a professional if a mark or smell remains. | Hot water, scrubbing. |
| Food and sauces | Scrape off solids gently, then blot. Tomato, curry, turmeric, and other strongly colored foods can stain quickly; contact a professional if color remains. | Wiping, which spreads the sauce. |
| Oil, butter, grease | Scrape and blot only, then contact a professional. | Water, dish soap, solvents. |
| Chocolate | Let it harden, lift off as much as possible, then blot. Remaining residue usually needs a professional. | Heat, rubbing. |
| Milk and dairy | Blot thoroughly. Dairy can leave odor if it reaches the foundation; contact a professional if you notice a smell later. | Perfumed deodorizers. |
| Mud and dirt | Let it dry completely, then break it up gently and vacuum with suction only. | Wiping wet mud, which pushes it deeper. |
| Candle wax | Harden it with an ice pack in a sealed bag, then lift the pieces off gently. Leave any remaining wax or color to a professional. | An iron, hair dryer, or any heat. |
| Chewing gum | Harden it with an ice pack in a sealed bag, then lift it off in small pieces. | Pulling at the fibers, chemical removers. |
| Blood | Blot gently and contact a professional. | Warm or hot water. |
| Pet urine or vomit | Remove solids, blot thoroughly, and contact a professional. Urine can reach the foundation even when the surface looks dry. | Perfumed sprays; enzyme or ammonia cleaners unless a professional advises them. |
| Ink, nail polish, paint, hair dye | Blot what you can without spreading it and contact a professional. | Nail polish remover, alcohol, solvents. |
Products to keep away from your rug
- Bleach and bleach-based products
- Steam cleaners, hot-water extraction, and rental carpet machines
- Carpet shampoos and strong stain removers
- Home mixtures such as vinegar, baking soda, or club soda, even when widely recommended online
- Perfumed deodorizing sprays and powders, which mask odor without removing its cause
A product labeled "wool safe" is not automatically safe for every handmade rug. Older dyes and earlier repairs can react differently.
For more on wool pile rugs, see our guide on how to clean and care for a hand-knotted wool rug.
Sun & Fading
Light gradually changes the dyes in any rug. The effect builds up over time and cannot be reversed, and it is usually uneven: the part of the rug nearest a window changes first, while the area under a sofa keeps its original color.
Reducing light exposure
- Use curtains, blinds, or sheer panels during the brightest hours of the day.
- UV-filtering window film can help in rooms with strong, direct sun. It reduces some of the effect but does not stop it completely.
- If you can, avoid placing a rug where it sits in direct sun for hours every day.
- Rotating the rug spreads future light exposure more evenly.
If your rug has already faded
- Fading is a permanent change in the dye. It cannot be washed out, and rotating the rug will not bring the color back.
- From now on, the priority is to reduce further light exposure using the steps above.
- For a noticeable patch, a rug restoration specialist can advise whether color retouching is suitable. Results depend on the rug.
- Do not try markers, fabric paint, or home dyes. They rarely match, can bleed later, and are very difficult to remove.
Dry, brittle fibers
Long exposure to strong sun, or a spot next to a radiator or heating vent, can leave fibers dry and brittle. This is damage to the fiber itself, and cleaning does not reverse it. Move the rug away from the heat or light source, and if the fibers feel brittle, ask a specialist to assess the rug's condition before it is cleaned.
Good to know
Vintage rugs arrive with color that has already softened over decades of use. Care is about preventing further, uneven change from here on.
Water & Moisture
Few things damage a handmade rug as much as moisture that stays in it. Trapped water can lead to mildew, odor, and dye bleeding, and over time can weaken the foundation.
Everyday moisture risks
- Plant pots and vases. Never place them directly on a rug. Water that collects underneath can damage the foundation unnoticed.
- Damp floors. Make sure a freshly mopped floor is completely dry before laying the rug back down.
- Basements and humid rooms. Check the back of rugs in damp spaces regularly for musty smells or spotting.
- Entryways. Wet shoes and umbrellas bring water in daily; let a runner by the door dry fully.
If your rug gets soaked
This could be from a leak, a flood, a burst pipe, or a large spill. Act fast and contact a professional rug cleaner the same day.
- A wet rug is much heavier than a dry one. Get help to move it, and support its full weight from underneath. Never lift or drag it by the fringe or the edges.
- Move it off the wet floor onto a dry, clean surface as soon as possible.
- Blot or press out as much water as you can with dry towels. Do not wring or twist the rug.
- Keep it flat, with air moving around it. Fans and good ventilation help.
- Do not use direct heat, a hair dryer, or strong sun to dry it.
A soaked rug often needs full professional cleaning and controlled drying, especially if the water was dirty or colors have started to run. If the water came from a flood or sewage, do not dry and reuse the rug without professional cleaning.
Curling, Wrinkles & Shape Problems
A handmade rug can react to shipping, humidity, and furniture. Many minor shape issues settle with time. The home steps below are for rugs in sound condition only; if your rug is fragile, stiff, or antique, or has a loose or damaged repair, and you are unsure, contact us or a rug specialist first.
Curling corners and edges
- Give the rug time to settle flat.
- For a rug in sound condition, you can place something heavy and flat, such as a stack of books on a protective cloth, on the corner for a day or two.
- Gently rolling a flexible corner in the opposite direction for a short time can also help. Stop if the rug feels stiff or resists.
- If an edge keeps curling, the side binding may be tight or worn. A rug repair specialist can assess it.
Creases from shipping or folding
- Lay the rug flat in its place and let it settle for a few days.
- For a flexible rug with a stubborn crease, rolling it gently in the opposite direction of the fold for a few hours can help.
- Do not iron or steam the crease.
Ripples, waves, and bumps
- If you use a rug pad, check that it is flat and the right size; a bunched pad is a common cause.
- Changes in humidity can make a rug relax or tighten. Ripples caused by this may settle as conditions stabilize.
- Lift heavy furniture rather than dragging it across the rug.
- Ripples that do not settle should be assessed by a rug specialist.
Furniture dents
- Move the furniture and give the pile time to recover.
- Gently lift the flattened pile with your fingertips.
- Use furniture cups or coasters under heavy legs to spread the weight, and shift furniture slightly from time to time.
Rugs that are not perfectly square
Small irregularities in shape are common in handmade rugs and are usually visible in the product photos. If you notice a change in shape after the rug has been in use, such as a newly wavy side, contact us and we can advise.
Washing Your Rug
Handmade rugs do need cleaning from time to time, but not the way wall-to-wall carpet is cleaned. Vacuuming removes surface dust; professional cleaning removes the fine grit and soil that settle deep in the rug and slowly wear the fibers.
Why we do not recommend washing at home
- A wet rug is extremely heavy, and water held in the foundation is hard to dry fully at home.
- Uneven drying can cause mildew, odor, shrinking, or distortion.
- Some dyes, especially in older rugs, can bleed when wet.
- Soap and shampoo left in the fibers attract dirt faster afterward.
What a rug specialist does
A specialist in handmade rugs first examines the rug's materials, dyes, backing, earlier repairs, and condition, then chooses a suitable cleaning method and drying process for that particular rug. This is very different from steam cleaning or a general carpet service.
How often?
It depends on how the rug is used. A rug in a busy living room with pets or children needs cleaning more often than one in a quiet bedroom. A rug is usually due when it looks dull, feels gritty, has an odor, or has had a spill that home care could not fully remove.
Questions to ask a rug cleaner
- Do you specialize in handmade, vintage, and antique rugs?
- Do you test dyes for colorfastness before cleaning?
- How will you decide on the cleaning method for my rug?
- How do you dry the rug, and how long does it take?
- Do you also offer repairs, such as fringe and edge work?
Care by Rug Type
The basics above apply to every rug. These notes cover what is different for each type. Your rug's construction and materials are listed on its product page.
Hand-knotted wool rugs (Oushak, Persian, tribal, and more)
- Vacuum with suction only, in the direction of the pile.
- The pile hides soil well, so have the rug cleaned when it starts to look dull, not only when you see stains.
Our guide to caring for hand-knotted wool rugs covers them in detail. Browse hand-knotted rugs.
Kilims and flatweave rugs
- Kilims have no pile, so dirt sits closer to the surface. Regular gentle vacuuming matters more.
- Some kilims can be used on both sides. Flipping one now and then spreads wear, but only if both faces are finished the same way. Kilims with extra decorative threads woven into one side (such as cicim) or with a backing should not be flipped; if you are unsure, ask us.
- Kilims are lighter than pile rugs and can slip on smooth floors; a rug pad is an option if that is a concern.
- Small, lightweight kilims in sound condition can be shaken gently outdoors, held by the body rather than the fringe.
Slits are part of the weave
Many kilims are woven with a slit technique, which leaves small vertical openings where two colors meet. These are a normal part of the design, not damage. Damage is different: if you see a new tear, broken threads, or an opening that is getting larger, contact a rug repair specialist early.
Browse kilim rugs and flatweave rugs.
Goat hair and hemp kilims
- Goat hair and hemp are coarser, stiffer fibers than wool. Vacuum gently with suction only.
- Goat hair is stiff and can feel prickly on bare feet, so these kilims suit hallways, entryways, and rooms where shoes are worn. Kilims blended with sheep's wool prickle much less.
- Keep them dry. Do not wet-clean them at home; leave cleaning to a specialist.
- A goat hair kilim may have a light natural scent when first unpacked. It fades with airing in a well-ventilated room.
- These rugs can feel firm at first and may take a little longer to lie completely flat.
Vintage and antique rugs
- Vintage rugs may have areas of low pile or softened dyes. Vacuum these areas on the lowest setting and keep heavy furniture off them.
- Choose lower-traffic rooms for fragile or very old pieces.
- Never shake or beat an antique rug.
- After a spill, blot only and let a specialist take over.
Browse vintage rugs.
Overdyed rugs
- Overdyed rugs are hand-knotted and dyed a new color after weaving. Care for them as you would any hand-knotted wool rug: vacuum with suction only and blot spills.
- When the rug needs a full cleaning, tell the cleaner it is overdyed.
Browse overdyed rugs.
Patchwork rugs
- Patchwork rugs are made of cut sections of vintage pile and kilim weaving, sewn together. A fabric backing covers the seams on the underside. The seams are the most sensitive part.
- Vacuum gently and avoid pulling or dragging the rug, which puts stress on the seams.
- If a seam starts to open, have it re-stitched promptly by a rug repair specialist.
Browse patchwork rugs.
Long-pile rugs (such as Tulu and some Moroccan rugs)
- Long pile traps crumbs and dust. Vacuum with suction only; a brush can tangle the pile.
- Small, lightweight rugs in sound condition can be shaken gently outdoors, held by the body rather than the fringe.
- Fluff flattened areas by hand.
- Loose fibers are more noticeable in long-pile rugs. Contact us if shedding increases or leaves thin areas.
Browse Tulu rugs and Moroccan rugs.
Aubusson and needlepoint rugs
- These fine, flat textiles are more delicate than knotted rugs and suit low-traffic spaces.
- Vacuum on the lowest suction or through a clean mesh screen.
- Avoid placing heavy furniture on them.
- Leave all cleaning beyond light vacuuming to a specialist.
Browse Aubusson and needlepoint rugs.
Pests, Pets & Heavy Wear
Moths and carpet beetles
Moth and carpet beetle larvae feed on wool and other animal fibers, especially in dark, undisturbed places: under sofas and beds, along walls, and in storage.
- Vacuum under furniture and the back of the rug regularly. Regular disturbance discourages moths.
- Look for signs such as small bare patches, loose tufts, fine webbing, or tiny cocoons.
- If you find activity, vacuum the area, keep the rug away from other textiles, and contact a professional. Treatment and cleaning are needed to stop the damage from spreading.
Pets
- Blot accidents immediately and have any spot that urine reached professionally cleaned, even if it looks dry.
- Keep pet nails trimmed; claws can pull threads, especially in kilims and flatweaves.
- Vacuum more often to remove hair and dander.
High-traffic areas and furniture
- Rotate rugs in hallways, entryways, and dining rooms more often.
- Use chair glides or protective pads under dining chair legs.
- Place a doormat outside entrances so less grit reaches the rug.
Storing Your Rug
- Have it cleaned first. Soil and food residue left in a stored rug attract moths.
- Make sure it is completely dry.
- Roll it, do not fold it. Folds create creases that can strain the foundation over time.
- Wrap it in breathable fabric such as cotton sheeting. Avoid sealing it in plastic, which traps moisture.
- Store it off the floor, in a dry, cool, well-ventilated space away from direct sun. Avoid damp basements and hot attics.
- Check it every few months for moisture and moth activity.
Fringe, Edges & Repairs
In many handmade rugs, the fringe is the end of the warp threads that run through the whole rug, so it is part of the structure rather than decoration. Small problems are much easier to fix early. Contact a rug repair specialist if you see:
- fringe that is thinning, knotted, or breaking,
- side edges where the binding is loose or unraveling,
- a small hole, a worn spot showing the foundation, or moth damage,
- a new tear or an opening that is growing,
- a seam coming apart on a patchwork rug.
Do not cut away fringe or loose threads yourself. If you are not sure whether something needs attention, send us a photo and we will help.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I steam clean or shampoo my handmade rug?
No. Steam, hot water, and carpet shampoos can damage fibers, cause colors to run, and leave residue. Have the rug cleaned by a professional experienced with handmade rugs.
Can I wash my rug in a washing machine?
No. Machine washing can distort the rug's shape, damage the foundation, and cause colors to run. This applies to small rugs and kilims too.
My rug is shedding. Is that normal?
A few loose surface fibers can come up with vacuuming. Shedding that increases, leaves bare-looking areas, or comes with broken fibers is not expected. Please contact us with photos.
How do I stop my rug from sliding?
Most handmade rugs do not need a pad. If a rug slides on a smooth floor, a floor-compatible rug pad slightly smaller than the rug can help keep it in place.
Can faded areas be restored?
Fading is permanent and cannot be washed out. Reducing further light exposure is the priority, and a rug restoration specialist can advise whether retouching a noticeable patch is suitable.
Is it safe to use baking soda or vinegar on my rug?
We do not recommend home mixtures. Even common ingredients can react with older dyes, leave residue, or spread a stain. Blot the spill with a clean white cloth and contact a professional if a mark remains.
Questions about your rug? We are here to help.
Email info@rugncarpet.com or call +1 424 258 5363. Please include your order number or the product link, and a photo if you have a specific concern, so we can help you quickly.
Last updated: October 2026